A large company like Andersen Windows makes many window models. As a result it would be a tremendous mistake to paint them all with the same brush. As we go through the reviews of Andersen Windows we’ll look the full line of products. We’ll include Renewal by Andersen windows that are made for remodeling projects.
Find Andersen Windows reviews here:
- Renewal by Andersen Windows – The comments on this page are great!
- Andersen 100 Series Windows – Fibrex frames for lower cost than Renewal
- Andersen 200 Series Windows
- Andersen 400 Series Windows
- Andersen A-Series
- Andersen E-Series
- Sliding Patio Doors
- American Craftsman Vinyl Windows Formerly by Andersen
- Silver Line Vinyl Windows Formerly by Andersen
- Heritage Aluminum Windows from Andersen
We’ll also look at the Andersen window warranty and the Renewal by Andersen warranty along with costs of all options.
One important point to remember is that Renewal by Andersen windows are specifically designed to be replacement windows. These models are called replacement windows or pocket windows. This means they are designed to fit inside an existing window frame. They are offered by independent contractors across the country under the Renewal by Andersen brand. Products sold under the Andersen Windows brand are typically new construction windows. These are offered through contractors or through home improvement retailers like Home Depot or Lowes.
Other Andersen window posts you might find helpful:
- Why you should NEVER buy Andersen windows
- Andersen windows FAQ
- Renewal by Andersen Complaints – What’s going on?
- Andersen sells Silver Line and American Craftsman brands
Andersen Windows has been producing quality products since 1902. That is a track record that most any company would make any company proud. Mr Andersen got his start by producing standard size windows which was a new innovation at the time. He could produce a standard window frame in 10 minutes that had a better seal than anything else around.
Throughout the years they’ve continued to innovate. The Andersen windows available now reflect the wide desires of consumers. From less expensive builder grade options to the high end beautiful windows, Andersen makes them all.
You may note that folks often misspell the name of the company. It is correctly spelled Andersen windows, not Anderson Windows.
Click the links above to read through the reviews. We hope you’ll find them to be helpful.
What should you do if you still have questions about Andersen windows?
Find our Andersen windows FAQ page here. Post a comment with any question and our experts will answer it for everyone to see!
If you’re looking for a window company right now, the best advice we have is to check out our list of the best window companies all over the country. You can find it right here.
How can you find a great window company?
That part is easy. Check this section for recommendations of window companies all over the country. There’s no better way to get new windows.
79 thoughts on “Andersen Windows Reviews”
Please review Andersen Series composite windows (sooner, the better). Thanks!
p.s. or, direct me to or email me a realistic, fair review or two
There will be several new Andersen window reviews uploaded soon. The Renewal by Andersen composite window will be among them. Keep an eye out in the next 10 days or so.
Hi – I am planning on replacing my wood windows; I have been getting price quotes from several different companies. I am debating on having Pella Proline 450 series – wood window with Aluminum clad outside and also Marvin infinite series. Marvin windows are 50% more. Do you have any suggestion? Thanks for your help.
I like aluminum clad wood windows and I’m not a huge fan of any fiberglass or composite types. The Proline windows are a decent option if you really want a wood window. Another decent option is the Jeld-Wen Siteline EX line. The Marvin Infinity fiberglass windows get a lot of good reviews, but I’m not a huge fan. If I were going with wood windows I would get real wood windows not imitation wood.
I would not recommend Pella. I built my home 20 years ago and installed the top of the line Pella Designer Series windows. They where aluminum cladded. I am now replacing all of them. Some do not open or close and there are several that have totally rotted out along the bottom sash where water leaked behind the aluminum.
Yup. I get calls all the time to replace pella’s. The only window I will recommend to homeowners is Andersen.
We have anderson Windows, pella Windows and Alcoa and the anderson has been fantastic. the pella not impressed, moisture problems right away and the Alcoa are just plain bad.
Terrible, don’t do Andersen windows. We just had them done. Shoddy installation, caulking was awful. Get ready to lose 2” around the glass. It’s like you put a frame 2” wide all round the window. Sort of defeats the idea of a window. I’m sorry but losing 4” from the vertical and horizontal surface is in unacceptable. Not worth it!
I am also looking for a review of Renewal by Andersen windows. Please publish soon! Many thanks. We have a bay window that must be replaced in the next few months, and the vinyl options are exceedingly ugly. I think Renewal is one of our few options for a good window, but looking for more info.
Thanks for writing! We’re a little surprised by the demand for reviews which is a fantastic problem to have. We just put together some great pics of the Renewal by Andersen windows and we’ll be completing that review shortly.
To summarize, the only real benefit of the Renewal product over vinyl is the look. That’s certainly a fine reason to pick one option over another, but just be clear that it’s only the look. The energy efficiency ratings for the Renewal windows are worse than most vinyl windows, the cost for Renewal is higher and the warranty for Renewal is shorter.
I often recommend that folks considering composite or fiberglass windows take a look at a real wood option. I know you probably have old wood windows that are rotten so you don’t want wood, but ask yourself why the warranty on the Andersen Fibrex frames is so short? It’s probably because they don’t expect them to last very long. I know they may have given you some line about lifetime warranties only being good for 7 years, but that is just factually not true. In fact, their questionable sales tactics are one reason we won’t be recommending Renewal by Andersen.
You’ll sometimes get BETTER warranties on real wood windows than you will on Fibrex frames and then you get real wood rather than simulated wood. It can be a pretty good option.
I should say very clearly that the local Renewal offices are locally owned so they are NOT owned by Andersen. That means the one in your town might be really great and the one in my town might not. Just keep in mind that if they gave you a long story about vinyl windows warping and vinyl windows having short warranties they were not being honest with you. A company that is not honest about one thing will likely be dishonest about another. If they can’t sell their products on the merits without lying about their competitors I would steer clear.
In short I’d say that paying more for a look you like is certainly reasonable. After all I didn’t pick the cheapest car on the lot and I’d bet you didn’t either. Just remember that there is no real reason to pick Renewal over any other composite or fiberglass window and you may like the look of real wood even better.
Thank you IMMENSELY for your input! You made our decision so much easier. My husband and I have been going round and round between wood and Fibrex products, shocked at sticker prices for the latter, as well as continually chasing vinyl products to see if one could possibly give the look we wanted. This has been a year-long process and includes a number of wasted life hours sitting thru window marketing presentations.
I think the demand for your informed opinions speaks to the serious lack of guidance in the window arena overall. I have done all kinds of internetsearches on windows to try to understand ratings and design of windows, but very few come out as you have on your site and address window quality and design straightforwardly, in language non-industry people can understand.
Many kudos to The Window Dog for giving consumers straight answers on a very high-dollar item that for a very long time has been shrouded in secrecy and industry hype and jargon. You deserve some kind of Web award! Please continue your great work.
Thanks for the fantastic feedback! Be sure to spread the word as far as you can. We’re still getting this site off the ground and we’re seeing the traffic grow every day which is a great sign.
I am very glad that we were able to help you cut through the clutter. We hope the new windows work out great for you.
…and if you can find an internet award to nominate us for please feel free 😉
Which product did Ann de Guzman choose?
I have a home on Cape Cod Mass built in the mid 80s. The windows are due for a replacement and I am considering the Anderson 400 series Double hung windows. I was quoted $780 for a new construction window installed and all trim painted, or $450 for the same Anderson 400 series replacement windows. Inside the house, I can hear everything outside.. including birds chirping, and cars passing by. I have reinsulated the house, and the windows are my last thing to accomplish. Would it be better (for sound reasons) to go with new construction vs replacement?
I don’t think there will be much/any difference in sound transmission in a new construction vs replacement window. $330 per window additional cost is probably also a little on the high side. Installing a new construction window in an existing opening is more work, but it’s not $330 more.
Ask them if they can get laminated glass in the windows for you. That will have a noticeable impact on sound. You could probably get replacement windows with laminated glass for less than $780 per window and you’d have a much better result.
Thanks for your suggestions. I have decided to go with the replacement window. In your opinion, If you had a choice, would you pick an Anderson 400 Series replacement over an Alside Mezzo window and why. I have both estimated and alside came in at a higher price which surprised me. Again, this is for a home in New England
Wood windows like the Andersen 400 series windows have a different (some might say better) look than vinyl windows like the Alside Mezzo. It really comes down to whether you want the look of the wood window or the efficiency of a vinyl window. I have Andersen 400 series windows in my house and I can feel a draft through them in the winter. I didn’t pick the windows (they came with the house) and I wouldn’t order them again, but some people are more concerned with the look of wood. They do look pretty.
You are probably getting that draft due to faulty installation. I have seen builders install with no caulking before! Nowadays we tape around the windows as an extra preventative. I have installed a lot of different windows and Andersen windows are excellent quality. If you call your local rep I know for a fact they will come out and fix it if it’s a window issue. But I’d put money on it being install. More than likely the middles are bowed out too much from somebody screwing the middle in without shims or they never straightened it during install. That’s a common install problem and causes the window to lose contact with frame enough to get air flow.
What? You have drafty windows! That just ain’t right. I would add that I to have Anderson 400 Series double hung and casement windows. they are equally drafty and the casements will not close after I force them open. I’ll agree with you they sure do look nice. Luckily I am a dealer of the nicest wood simulated window I’ve seen, Sunrise Restorations and will be ordering new windows for my house very soon
Well, luckily I moved a little while back so no more drafty windows for me. I like describing a vinyl window as a simulated wood window, good terminology.
There is a huge difference in the types of 400 Series windows as I see shopping around on their website. Are your drafty 400 windows casement, double hung or sliders? I am looking to replace a house full of casements.
You’re absolutely right. Mine are double hung. Typically casements will have a tighter seal as the lock mechanism really pulls them shut.
Good job. Thank you for sharing with us. keep it up.
Professional website design
Any comments on Woodwright DH vs. E-Series DH before you actually write the reviews? Our contractor, who initially quoted Woodwrights for us, recently noticed the color options might not match our home, and recommended the E-Series. He said the price difference was insignificant… is this TRUE? I’m a tiny bit concerned he may be slipping in a cheaper window at the same cost to us.
More importantly, how do these windows compare in terms of quality, longevity, ratings, etc? We’re in CO, at the 6000 ft elevation, and have both the winters and the high UV summers, low humidity year-round. These will be full replacement, white interiors, with many “oversized” units. We’re probably most afraid that the new windows won’t perform the way we hope in terms of keeping the drafts down and temperatures even, or that we’ll make the wrong decision on $80k worth of windows and pick something no future homeowner will want. Does the aluminum clad conduct heat too well? Cause condensation? Spacers? Will one look much better 5-10 years down the road being less susceptible to cosmetic damage? Most of the windows will be north and west-facing actually. I probably don’t need to lay down the rest of the typical concerns. Thanks.
Any comments on the Anderson 100 series wood windows for use in cold climates, like Michigan? We have wood windows that basically rotted out over the years. We like Marvin ‘ s Infinity – no rotting, pretty and elegant.
Each Andersen window is built according to your climate zone. I wouldn’t hesitate to use 100 series but they are not wood. They’re composite.
We are building and have been trying to find windows for the south side of our house. We are wanting to take advantage solar heat gain using a passive solar design. Ideally it would be good to have a SHGC of .5 or more but with the energy star ratings window manufactures are moving away for a high solar gain window. I have window distributors tell me that we would need to special oder Low e 180 cardinal glass which is ideal for passive solar gain. However they say the extra expense involved for a special order would offset any savings we might get in solar gain. Do you have any thoughts on whether it would be best in the long run?
Realistically it shouldn’t cost you much extra. I know Alside recently added a glass option with a SGHC of 0.52 and I’d bet Andersen offers it too.
If they don’t, and I’m not sure because we only install Andersen windows a few times per year, the answer would depend on how long the long run realistically is. If you’re talking 20 years the savings will likely add up and energy costs will likely go up as well. If there’s a chance you move in a few years you likely won’t see a ton of savings.
Any feedback on the other composite windows that Andersen makes? Renewal is outrageous at $1,500+/window for 21 for double hung. Like the looks of the Fibrex vs vinyl and like the purported longevity of the Fibrex vs wood. Wondering if the A-series Fibrex is akin to RBA but without the crazy markup.
I believe it’s the same fibrex. Keep an eye on the warranty. If they only offer a 10 year warranty it would lead me to believe they don’t expect it to last 15 years.
We are considering using the 100 series Andersen windows for a new construction home in Michigan. Do you have any feedback about the quality of these windows?
I’ve never worked with them as we don’t really do any new construction. Maybe someone else will chime in.
Has anyone provided feedback about your home? I’m in MI building a new house. Andersen 100 series have been recommended by my builders.
I really appreciate the information gleaned from this awesome website.
I’m a little confused over all the claims made by window companies. I am looking for an honest answer to replace a few windows in our home in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula – a harsh winter environment. After all that I have read it appears that wood windows clad in aluminum might be my best option but I’m still confused over a brand to consider – any thoughts out there?
I do not recommend aluminum clad windows for a few reasons. First is cost – less expensive and better alternatives are available. Next, consider this question: What happens where the aluminum cladding meets the glass? Answer: It doesn’t. There is – and must be – a gap between the aluminum cladding and the glass. This must be filled with a caulking or other waterproof material. If any water makes it way through this sealant, and it always does, you’ll have a mess on your hands. The sealants also tend to be sticky, and attract dirt, and can cause smears on the glass when you try to clean them. Finally, the coating on the aluminum is enamel, which tends to break down and become chalky over time – much more so than the vinyl of a good quality vinyl replacement window. My advice, go with pure vinyl instead of any cladded wood window.
Hi Steven, thanks for chiming in. It’s important to consider the fact that some people are just in love with the idea of wood windows. If that’s the case I think an aluminum cladding is a better choice than the vinyl cladding you’ll get from Andersen. It seems to me that the aluminum is much more substantial and likely to hold up.
There are a lot of advantages to vinyl windows, but there’s a reason wood windows still exist.
How does cellular vinyl windows compare to wood or vinyl? A local company is heavily advertising Royal Building Products Genesis Cellular Window Systems as better than wood at a lower price. I cannot find a single review anywhere for these windows. This local company is offering a full transferable lifetime warranty for the original owner and 1 time for the next owner. The warranty includes labor and materials at no cost to the owner. Royal only provides a 20 year non-transferable warranty. The interesting thing is the local company has only been in business for 1 year causing me to doubt they would be around to honor their warranty.
Faye, I know I’m late to the party but figured I’d chime in anyhow. Genesis Cellular window is typically offered because It’s something different than what every one else has. I’m not really sure If I can point to one thing that would make me believe Genesis vs wood is a better idea than a nice vinyl window vs wood. The interior foil laminate on the genesis do not resemble any wood I’ve ever seen and the air infiltration rate is very high .17 when compared to some nice vinyl options <.05. The biggest draw back to the Genesis is the size of the frame/sash ( you have about 4" or so before you ever get to the glass. Thats one of the largest frames in the industry and will cut down on your visible light and glass size. take a look at some other brands to compare with wood, like Sunrise, vytex or softlite. I think you'll find that these brands will outperform and may even have better aesthetic appeal than wood
We are so confused on windows! We are trying to replace 48 yr old wood windows due to condensation and rotting – we have been told every brand out there I think – We love the look of our wood windows and they fit the age of our traditional brick home, but we are being told the newer better option is to do with the aluminum clad out and wood inside. I wanted Anderson and have been quoted E series and 400 series – I still do not know the difference – any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Anderson is probably 2 1/2 times higher than other windows we have received an estimate on, but we may not be comparing apples to apples! Do you have any thought on Weather Shield windows??? Or Quaker Or Jen weld??? Thanks!
Hi Beverly, we offer WeatherShield and Held Wen windows in some of our stores with good success. Andersen windows are fine products, but the pricing can vary widely based on the distribution channel. It doesn’t hurt to compare your options. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions.
We have been fighting with our WeatherShield Visions2000 vinyl single hung windows for nearly 10 years. We bought them for our new construction home from Windor industries in Montana. I can feel a draft from most of our windows and they get iced over where they slide up and down. One leaked water and ruined by trim and the amount of dust/dirt they let in is horrible. I can literally wiggle the whole frame if I push on it. Windor put packing peanuts in them to help with air leakage….really?! Obviously those fell out. Now I can barely open and close some of the windows. WeatherShield rep didn’t return several phone calls or emails and the company in general was hard to reach and less than helpful. Please don’t buy Weathershield windows!!!! We are looking for replacements now and are considering Fiberglass Pella Impervia or Anderson 400 series, which after looking at this site I’m not so sure about. I want efficient windows that don’t leak and will last for years to come! Any suggestions?
Unfortunately when wood window companies try to make vinyl windows they don’t see great results. We offer WeatherShield wood windows in some of our stores with great success. I’ve never been a big fan of their vinyl windows. I’m sorry to hear about the trouble you’re having. When looking at new windows look at the air infiltration rate.
You’ll see that a nice vinyl window has a much better air inflation rate than a wood or fiberglass window. Good luck with the project!
Two years ago we had our house redone with new Anderson windows. There is one area that we have three casement windows. for the past two winter’s there has been such a draft that we have basically frozen just sitting in our living room. We don’t know where to turn, we left off on a bad note with our contractor so contacting him would be our last resort. Who do we contact to see if its a window problem or an install problem? If it is an install problem how do we correct it? With 5 kids in the house we can’t go through another cold winter. Please help!
Try calling Andersen. I’ve called them for parts for some very old windows and they’ve always been extremely helpful. In this case your problem may be installation related so they may not be so much help. It’s worth a try. Their number is 800-426-4261.
Good web site with good information. I retired from Stanley Doors Systems as a senior buyer and did a lot of work with doors and window systems. I think today its all confusing for people. but if the windows have no thermo brake in the frames they are not a good window.
You must have been around in the aluminum window days. You don’t see too many aluminum windows still being installed. Most folks now are working with vinyl windows. Thanks for taking the time to write.
I’m wondering if anyone has experience with the Andersen e-series. We are looking at that, Marvin Infinity and Gerkin. Thanks!
My wife and I studied replacement gliding doors for months before deciding to go with an Andersen E-Series (Eagle) LH Gliding Door. When it arrived, the screen door was bent inside the carton, there were multiple deep scratches on the Extruded Aluminum exterior, and the stile on the interior of the moving panel had black marks under the paint, that could be seen through the paint finish. It was like a dark spot on the wall that gets primed with a defective primer, and the “holiday” shows right through the finish coat of paint.
The moving panel was ordered with a keyed lock that was not installed on the door when it arrived.
Andersen sent us a replacement screen door that was shipped on a wooden contraption that would carry a riding lawn tractor, and it too revealed scratches on the powder coat finish right out of the box. They tell us that there is “No Way” something like this could ever leave the Andersen factory, and we say pure bologna. They don’t want to spend any money to resolve this, nor do they wish to do anything about it. We remember the old Eagle Window Company and they made a legendary product. We remember the original Andersen factory that was located in Kentucky too. We will also remember that Andersen has now sunk to the lowest level they can go. We will never buy or recommend another Andersen product, ever!
Sorry to hear about your troubles. I’m not a huge fan of the Renewal sales process, but the regular Andersen windows tend to have a pretty solid reputation for quality. Maybe see if they can ship the replacement parts to a distributor who can receive them on a larger truck to reduce handling. Then you might need to pickup yourself or pay them for delivery, but it might be worth it. Good luck.
The screen door issue could be solved by having it shipped to an Andersen dealer, then we could pick it up when it arrives at the dealership. The black marks on the interior of the stiles’ is more problematic, especially since they do not make a paint kit for the Eagle Series door. Even if they did make one, I’m not very thrilled about sanding, taping and refinishing the trim myself, when that was a job for someone that fell asleep at the Columbia, SC plant.
As for the deep scratches on the finish of the extruded aluminum frame outside… well, they won’t send a replacement panel and those scratches are deep enough to see the shiny aluminum underneath. I asked for an onsite inspection by an Andersen representative, but the supervisor maintained there were more hoops to jump through, in order to get to that level. She knows if we don’t dance the way she wants us to, she will not escalate our case. In short, they don’t want to do anything about it, and they won’t spend any money resolving the issues.
Well, I’m not in the business of defending Andersen, but I worked for a window plant many years ago. I can tell you that we got many contractors trying to pull tricks to get free parts or repairs for damage they caused. I’m not saying that’s what you’re doing, but it would explain some of their hesitation. My advice would be to approach it in as constructive a way as possible rather than assuming they’re trying to get you. They’re just trying to do their job and follow the policies the company has in place.
Contractor neglect is one thing, but a right-out-of-the-box issue is another matter. My wife and I were present when the carton was opened up and one of us was present the entire time that the unit was being installed. There was no damage done on the job site, period. The sloppy work they shipped out proves to me, and everyone else that has seen this door unit, that they have no Quality Control at the Columbia, SC plant.
It’s the old blame game that companies have used for decades, and Andersen is well versed on the plays in this game that costs the customer unfathomable amounts of cash, while the disreputable company deposits the checks.
I’m not saying that you’re faking anything, I’m just saying that the reason they have those policies in place isn’t because they think you’re a liar, it’s because people do lie to them all the time.
The windows I bought in the 80s fell apart. all the operating parts to open the windows deteriorated after 20 years and replacement parts are over $70 each and with over 45 windows I can’t afford to replace them. some of these windows I hardly used before they started to break and the seal leaked.
Windows you bought in the 80’s are having problems 30 years later? Sounds like you’re doing pretty well.
We are also wondering about the Andersen E series (aluminum) for a post-frame construction residence in a temperate climate. After having read reviews about Milgard’s “weeping windows” on the Milgard website, I am concerned about the same condensation issue in other manufacturers.
I wound’t worry too much about condensation. It’s typically a function of the environment. I wrote a post about it here that you might find helpful.
I’ve heard that windows wear out over time and need to be replaced… when are thermopane windows considered old and need replacing? We have Andersen Thermopane casement windows. Wood on the inside and vinyl on the outside. There are no leaks in the windows, but sometimes we have moisture on the glass in our northern facing bedroom windows.
Condensation on the glass is an environmental issue and not really related to the windows. If the condensation is in between the panes that’s a different issue. If you’re not having any issues with the current windows I’d say you should probably same your money unless you’re just dying for new windows!
We need to replace cranking mechanisms in south facing windows and found someone in the area that could locate them through Hayfield-the company who produced the original windows. We also needed to replace a couple windows-the major one in a family room. He uses Parco Windows in Eau Claire, Wisconsin. Do you have any information on this company?
Hi Karen, I don’t know much about that company. Maybe someone else will chime in with a little more info.
Andersen Windows 100 Series is a big mistake. I would not install them again. They leak. Bad. See for yourself on this video. They leak between the frame and the sash.
I was just quoted $103,000 to replace our 36 windows of standard size by a high pressure Renewal sales rep. He was so pushy, we practically had to throw him out.
Help, I’m looking at replacing the windows in my house, I have Weather Shield casement (32 years) and am looking at Anderson 400 windows as the replacements. The Weather Shield windows have held up very good over the years, I have three that do not need to be replaced and I will not be replacing them. I am replacing a French Door (80″ H x 68″W), a casement window (47″W x 34″H), and 4 casement windows (53″W x 43″H) measurements are approximate. I have talked to 3 companies (Renewal by Anderson, CL Ward Anderson Distributor, Home Depot (instore & Install Division)). I live in mid Michigan, south of Flint, the prices I have received on the windows & installation seams excessive (18,000 to 25,ooo) for the 5 windows and French door which will be changed to a 400 Series Frenchwood Gliding. The house is a normal 2 story dwelling, 4 windows on the 2nd floor, 1 window & French door on the 1st floor. I need help to understand if these prices are reasonable for the project, and if there is a way to get a ball park cost for a project like this. Note Home Depot offered as an alterative Simonton 6100 for $10,000, after seeing the comments on these windows I am not considering them. However, after seeing this price I am thinking that the install of a window should be about the same for all comparable widows regardless of the manufacture. I have a cost from HD store of $7500 for the purchase of the 400 Andersons and the install price for the Simonton’s was $6000, so I’m thinking the cost for this project with Anderson 400 should be around 13,000 to 14,000. Looking for some help on trying to understand what is a reasonable cost for this project.
Need to replace 1970’s single pane windows in our house and are considering the Anderson 100 series. I do not see a review, but would this be something you help us understand if we are getting a good window for between $200 – $300 per window.Thanks
Does anyone have a home with Andersen WIndows that are showing mold spots in the sealed glass? My home has them and slowly but surely the mold spots in the sealed glass are showing up. The windows are still under warranty but Andersen won’t replace them claiming it’s not a window problem. I’ve found a number of settled lawsuits over the past few years regarding the 400 Series Tilt Wash vinyl clad windows. Has anyone dealt with this before? What are my options?
Are the spots inside the sealed glass unit? If so I think that would be a warranty issue. If they’re outside the house or inside the house that’s likely not a warranty item. It’s possible they misunderstood you.
Hi. I appreciate this site! I am needing to replace an old picture window and I want a casement window. I’ve been told that the whole window sill and everything needs to be replaced. Is it better to have window dealers/installers do this or to hire a contractor person? Also, is it best to buy windows from a local dealer (private company) or is Lowe’s just as good for installation? I want wood on the inside and have been trying to research windows. I don’t have a lot to spend but want a quiet, decent window. What is your favorite company or companies and why? Any help is appreciated! Thank you.
I am really struggling to find a balance between cost and quality when it comes to windows. I am renovating a home in Northeast Ohio and my only real requirement is that the windows be casement and black inside and out. The home is for myself, however I want to renovate it cost effectively should I need to relocate and sell. It seems that the best, affordable option with the black in/out is the Andersen 100. What is your opinion on these and if you don’t like them, any standouts available with these features? I was quoted about $530 for a 30×48 100 series, no install. I have found Provia Aeris vinyl clad, Jeld-Wen and Crestline aluminum clad, as well as some higher end Andersen with the features. I have steered away from Pella and Marvin because of cost. Any help would be appreciated; thanks for the great site!
You’re right that a black interior will add a fair bit to the cost of the project. If you can find a design idea that works with black trim and white windows or something along those lines you’ll probably have an easier time lowering the cost. Black windows have become very popular lately, but they do impact the cost of the windows.
We just had a Renewal by Andersen rep visit us (we know Nothing about windows, but our 1967 home in SC has drafty old windows…), and wound up signing up to have 8 of our 1st floor storm-glass-less double-hung windows (various sizes), replaced with fancy top-of-the-line(?) Andersen’s at a shocking cost of $17,410. (after “discounts”), or $2,176. per window incl. tax and 2.99% financing. I’m now panicking – seems like we were “taken” by the smooth-talking salesman..?
My son just bought a fixer upper in the Outer Banks. All the windows and siding needs to be replaced. The house sits up on a dune so will get some wind/rain off the sound during storms. What type of window would you suggest? He needs new sliding glass doors too.
I’m not sure if you give reviews on sliding glass doors, but thought I would ask. I’m looking at replacing a 72” x 80” sliding door. I’m really not sure what I should be looking for. I’ve looked at an Anderson (at Home Depot) and a Pella (at Lowes). I know there’s different series in both of these doors, but unsure of which ones are better. I’m trying to keep the price under $3,000. I’m open to other brands, also. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
Hi Tracy, what’s your zip code? I might be able to help with a solution.
Check this section for a recommended company in the area. I bet they can help out.